If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony. Fernand Point

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Not your Chef Boyardee's ragu

I've been home more lately, with the weather cooling into a pleasant fall and time to let things simmer. Hubby gets a little woozy, anticipating the umami overload of slow braised food, and I love making food he enjoys.

Marcella Hazan came to mind, and her long cooked, Bolognese-style ragu, something I had never tried from 'The Classic Italian Cookbook', her treatise on the mama-made basics in the old style.

I didn't have ground beef but I did have a small pot roast that I diced, along with onion, celery and carrot, and began my all day sojourn. First the onion is sweated in a heavy Dutch oven , then the other veggies are added: but briefly, no caramelization, usually the initial objective in cooking.
Then the beef went in, cooked just until it was no longer raw looking. The wine came next; it was simmered away. Milk was evaporated off too. Finally, the tomatoes went into the pot and the heat was turned back until it only bubbled occasionally - a long, lazy afternoon transforming basic, even boring components - not an herb added! - to something utterly beyond, releasing a slow whisp of fragrance that slowly filled the kitchen, the apartment, the hallway...and brought home my Hubby and his big hug. I think the hug was because he loves me, not just because I feed him. :-)

I cooked some polenta and we ate it covered in the ragu, an earthy, gorgeous sauce. At the first forkful, it was clear that adding cheese was gilding the lily. Sensational.
The next time I made it, I used lean ground beef, doubled the recipe - anything that takes most of a day to make should be produced in bulk - and served it up over spaghetti, not bothering with parmesan. A bowl full of richly flavoured comfort... and there's another one waiting in the freezer whenever I want it. (big smile)